Author Topic: Tyndall effect  (Read 2481 times)

Offline Dean

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Re: Tyndall effect
« Reply #15 on: September 06, 2017, 12:18:26 AM »
Thanks Kephra & Wayne
I used a 12 Ga silver wire for the negative electrode and that made a big improvement ! ! !
Previously I was seeing larger particles of what I'm assuming is silver oxide swirling around and a bright Tyndall effect.
I'm still seeing the particles of silver oxide like before, but now even in a totally dark room the Tyndall effect is EXTREMELY faint and with just minimal lighting it completely disappears.
Previously, it was easily seen in a well lit room.
I just read about the importance of PH and Temp, just ordered a PH meter to find the sweet spot and also going to be running between 90F and 100F instead of 72F from now on
I feel like I'm getting much closer to where I want to be now
I VERY much appreciate your help !
Thank you

Hi JimReaper,

I haven't found a PH meter to be particularly helpful or accurate enough. I do have one but got readings of over 11 when the PH strips showed me about 8.5. I've found some useful "benchmarks" just using my TDS before starting the cell.

Starting reading is 000 - 001 (never use anything over 001).
Reading after adding a really accurately made 1m solution of sodium Carbonate is 127 - 130'ish.
Testing with strips at that point always see me bang on pH8.5. (your "sweet spot"

After that, the TDS has no accuracy but I've not had a bad batch since referencing this way.

If I add more sodium, at the start, my TDS goes up and if I add less, it dops so that's as good a reference as I need.


Regarding heat, it depends on what PPM you're aiming for as to how hot you should run the cell.
I've found much better results from not going above 40 degrees C when making 40ppm.

Adding reducer at the start takes care of the solubility limit and the little extra heat is just enough to keep reduction ahead of
production (Sorry Wayne, stole that one from you  8) )

But I've found "excessive heat" to be counter productive in terms of clarity so don't bother with anything more than that. unless i'm running 320ppm batches in which case I let it rise to about 80 degrees C by the end of the run. but even then, i let the temp rise gently from beginning to end (I always make 1 litre batches so we're talking 5 hours + for a full run.

hope this helps.